Saturday 12 November 2011

Lingerie

I have decided to create a blog just for lingerie, as it is one of the main aspects in fashion that I am interested in!

Ayten Gasson
I first came across this lingerie designer by conducting some research during a shop report. Straight away I fell in love with the whole brand and style. 
The brand was launched in 2005 and is now a recognised luxury lingerie label in the UK. 
S/S12 inspired by vintage penny sweets! 
Ayten Gasson started up the business after graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2004 as Ayten was disheartened to find that the closure of many UK based manufactures and design houses. 
This is because designers now searched for cheaper alternatives overseas. 
Ayten Gasson
With the help of the Princes Trust, Ayten launched a lingerie label with a firm commitment of supporting other UK businesses. To this day Ayten still produces every item in the UK from garters to teddies. 

Ayten sources vintage lace trims from old lace mills in Nottingham which once the area was well known for it. "A popular ranges from the SS11 collection was delicately trimmed with peach cotton lace, still produced in the UK by Roger Watson, who famously created the lace for Princess Diana’s wedding dress in 1981."

“While conducting a survey on our website, we found that 54% of our customers wanted to see more of styles like the teddy in our ranges. We also found that our sleep bra and similar styles appealed to a wider range of age groups, more so than our more structured pieces. We have decided to listen to what our customers have said and develop along a luxury nightwear influenced style, still working with UK manufacturers and sourcing lace and trims from the old lace mills in Nottingham” explains the designer.

Eco pieces designed by Ayten Gasson
The designer Ayten has now introduced a limited edition range of eco lingerie made using organic silk for autumn 2011. Ayten Gasson hopes to expand the new eco range and make it a permanent feature to the label. 


I decided to get in contact with designer Ayten Gasson to interview her about her career so far.

Interview with Lingerie Designer Ayten Gasson
Who are you and what do you do?
I am the owner and designer behind Ayten Gasson, a UK based Luxury silk lingerie label with a firm commitment to producing in the UK and an eye to ethical and sustainable sources



When did you realise you wanted to run your own business?
 Once graduating from university I was dishearten to find so much of the fashion industry had moved aboard and that there was a significant lack of work in the UK. I decided to start my own label and considerate on highlighting the skill and history of British manufacturing.



Did you have any business experience before setting up your business?
I was a manager of a high street lingerie chain in London’s Oxford Street. Other than that I had no experience other than what I was taught at university. 



How did you get into the business of Lingerie?
I had always loved vintage lingerie and the history of English lace. I worked in a high street lingerie shop and saw pretty designs being ruined when produced in cheap fabrics such as polyester and imported laces. 



How did you approach setting up your own business?
I launched the label with the help of the Princes Trust, who helped me finance my first collection as well as provide a mentor to guide me though my first year. 



What would you say are the essential skills required to run your own business successfully?
 You have to love what you do and be prepared to work stupid hours! 


What is/are your biggest business lesson/s learned so far?
To approach every contact professionally and to know you business and products inside out.  You’ll never know who you will meet and you should always be prepared.

Any obstacles or limitations you have had to overcome, particularly being a woman in business?
I am lucky to be in field that is dominated by women, so feel there are no major obstacles. 



What/who inspires you/how do you stay inspired?
My family inspire me (corny I know!) but I have just had my first child and that made me more aware of the importance of introducing ethically made fabrics, such as organic silks into the collection. We all have a responsibly to do what’s best for our environment and for future generations. 



What are your career highlights to date?
I get excited every time I see my collections in boutiques, even after 6 years. I recently took my mum to Fenwick’s in Bond Street to see the limited edition range I designed for them, which was very excited.    


ID Sarrieri
Browsing through blogs I came across this lingerie designer called 'ID Sarrieri'.

I decided to add a couple of my favourite designs as I'm always on the lookout for unusual, unique pieces of lingerie.


Aimer Lingerie 

Browsing www.youtube.com I came across this amazing lingerie fashion show - the garments are absolutely beautiful!



History of Lingerie
I decided to brush up on my lingerie knowledge and borrowed a lingerie book from the library created by Lesley Scott.

History of Lingerie in the 19th Century
  • Victorian women began layering undergarments - being uncorseted was considered the mark of a prostitute 
  • The typical Victorian woman wore an average of 11 pounds of underwear
  • The era of the Victorians was very prude - corset covers were worn to cover up the top of the corset if visable
  • The development of the sewing machine in the 1850s resulted in lingerie being produced much quicker as previously it was hand sewn 
  • The new technology increased the popularity of underwear simply because more unique designs could be created and created cheaply
  • In 1928 the system of bra sizing was introduced with bra cups invented which is still in use to this day
Underwear in the 21st Century 
  • In spring 2010 many designers were creating underwear as outerwear and layering with other garments such as a jumper
  • Undergarments are a much better fit these days as the shape and fabric used has been improved with technology 

Something I came across while browsing the internet - Amazing how much the shape of the corset has changed!


Jean Paul Gaultier 
Winter Collection 2011
I found this image of Dita Von Teese and Jean Paul online and decided to research it further as I loved the lingerie outfit she was wearing:

I found the concept behind the collection extremely interesting and successful.
Gaultiers message through this collection was 'You're never too old for a little striptease'.
Models strutting down the runway started to peel off their scarfs and coats to reveal the garments underneath. 





Inspirational Lingerie Photographs

I loved the photograph of the extreme studded spiked corset below:

I am really interested in this photograph due to the feminine structure of the corset combined with a masculine side incorporating studs, spikes and chains.