Saturday, 12 November 2011

Lingerie

I have decided to create a blog just for lingerie, as it is one of the main aspects in fashion that I am interested in!

Ayten Gasson
I first came across this lingerie designer by conducting some research during a shop report. Straight away I fell in love with the whole brand and style. 
The brand was launched in 2005 and is now a recognised luxury lingerie label in the UK. 
S/S12 inspired by vintage penny sweets! 
Ayten Gasson started up the business after graduating from Central Saint Martins in 2004 as Ayten was disheartened to find that the closure of many UK based manufactures and design houses. 
This is because designers now searched for cheaper alternatives overseas. 
Ayten Gasson
With the help of the Princes Trust, Ayten launched a lingerie label with a firm commitment of supporting other UK businesses. To this day Ayten still produces every item in the UK from garters to teddies. 

Ayten sources vintage lace trims from old lace mills in Nottingham which once the area was well known for it. "A popular ranges from the SS11 collection was delicately trimmed with peach cotton lace, still produced in the UK by Roger Watson, who famously created the lace for Princess Diana’s wedding dress in 1981."

“While conducting a survey on our website, we found that 54% of our customers wanted to see more of styles like the teddy in our ranges. We also found that our sleep bra and similar styles appealed to a wider range of age groups, more so than our more structured pieces. We have decided to listen to what our customers have said and develop along a luxury nightwear influenced style, still working with UK manufacturers and sourcing lace and trims from the old lace mills in Nottingham” explains the designer.

Eco pieces designed by Ayten Gasson
The designer Ayten has now introduced a limited edition range of eco lingerie made using organic silk for autumn 2011. Ayten Gasson hopes to expand the new eco range and make it a permanent feature to the label. 


I decided to get in contact with designer Ayten Gasson to interview her about her career so far.

Interview with Lingerie Designer Ayten Gasson
Who are you and what do you do?
I am the owner and designer behind Ayten Gasson, a UK based Luxury silk lingerie label with a firm commitment to producing in the UK and an eye to ethical and sustainable sources



When did you realise you wanted to run your own business?
 Once graduating from university I was dishearten to find so much of the fashion industry had moved aboard and that there was a significant lack of work in the UK. I decided to start my own label and considerate on highlighting the skill and history of British manufacturing.



Did you have any business experience before setting up your business?
I was a manager of a high street lingerie chain in London’s Oxford Street. Other than that I had no experience other than what I was taught at university. 



How did you get into the business of Lingerie?
I had always loved vintage lingerie and the history of English lace. I worked in a high street lingerie shop and saw pretty designs being ruined when produced in cheap fabrics such as polyester and imported laces. 



How did you approach setting up your own business?
I launched the label with the help of the Princes Trust, who helped me finance my first collection as well as provide a mentor to guide me though my first year. 



What would you say are the essential skills required to run your own business successfully?
 You have to love what you do and be prepared to work stupid hours! 


What is/are your biggest business lesson/s learned so far?
To approach every contact professionally and to know you business and products inside out.  You’ll never know who you will meet and you should always be prepared.

Any obstacles or limitations you have had to overcome, particularly being a woman in business?
I am lucky to be in field that is dominated by women, so feel there are no major obstacles. 



What/who inspires you/how do you stay inspired?
My family inspire me (corny I know!) but I have just had my first child and that made me more aware of the importance of introducing ethically made fabrics, such as organic silks into the collection. We all have a responsibly to do what’s best for our environment and for future generations. 



What are your career highlights to date?
I get excited every time I see my collections in boutiques, even after 6 years. I recently took my mum to Fenwick’s in Bond Street to see the limited edition range I designed for them, which was very excited.    


ID Sarrieri
Browsing through blogs I came across this lingerie designer called 'ID Sarrieri'.

I decided to add a couple of my favourite designs as I'm always on the lookout for unusual, unique pieces of lingerie.


Aimer Lingerie 

Browsing www.youtube.com I came across this amazing lingerie fashion show - the garments are absolutely beautiful!



History of Lingerie
I decided to brush up on my lingerie knowledge and borrowed a lingerie book from the library created by Lesley Scott.

History of Lingerie in the 19th Century
  • Victorian women began layering undergarments - being uncorseted was considered the mark of a prostitute 
  • The typical Victorian woman wore an average of 11 pounds of underwear
  • The era of the Victorians was very prude - corset covers were worn to cover up the top of the corset if visable
  • The development of the sewing machine in the 1850s resulted in lingerie being produced much quicker as previously it was hand sewn 
  • The new technology increased the popularity of underwear simply because more unique designs could be created and created cheaply
  • In 1928 the system of bra sizing was introduced with bra cups invented which is still in use to this day
Underwear in the 21st Century 
  • In spring 2010 many designers were creating underwear as outerwear and layering with other garments such as a jumper
  • Undergarments are a much better fit these days as the shape and fabric used has been improved with technology 

Something I came across while browsing the internet - Amazing how much the shape of the corset has changed!


Jean Paul Gaultier 
Winter Collection 2011
I found this image of Dita Von Teese and Jean Paul online and decided to research it further as I loved the lingerie outfit she was wearing:

I found the concept behind the collection extremely interesting and successful.
Gaultiers message through this collection was 'You're never too old for a little striptease'.
Models strutting down the runway started to peel off their scarfs and coats to reveal the garments underneath. 





Inspirational Lingerie Photographs

I loved the photograph of the extreme studded spiked corset below:

I am really interested in this photograph due to the feminine structure of the corset combined with a masculine side incorporating studs, spikes and chains. 


Newcastle Fashion Week 2011
During Newcastle Fashion Week there was a variety of fashion options to visits and see.
One which really stood out to me was the 'Live Lingerie' in Fenwick window:


As I was practically the first person there, other people didn't even notice that they were actual people! However, once they started to pose while we got our photograph together, people completely stopped in their tracks. 


This live window technique attracted peoples attention especially the boys...
a great way of promoting lingerie! 


Creating Lingerie 
This is a clipping from a newspaper which explains the process of making a pair of knickers! 
Something I want to attempt again! 


Salon International de la Lingerie
I have decided to research one of the biggest lingerie fashions shows ever!
I have watched shows online and think the whole atmosphere looks incredible - something I definitely want to experience! 
Both of the videos below display an amazing art of fashion:





Valisere 
Valisere Website
I stumbled across this gorgeous lingerie website which I had never heard of before until now.
Valisère has been meeting womens needs since 1860 - Valisère Lingerie unleashes a womans fantasies and illuminates her stage from which to embark upon her journey into a world that inspires and highlights her erotic side. A world, where she becomes 'Femme".
I decided to research further by searching on YouTube and came across this fantastic Lingerie Catwalk that Valisere created. The essence of the whole catwalk is totally unusual - from the music choice to the over the top wigs!



Fred & Ginger Lingerie 
I came across the website called www.petite-coquette.co.uk where I fell in love with Fred & Ginger.
The styling of the whole photoshoot is what attracted me - I find it really invigorating and love the gold brass vintage chair.


The brand is set to be shown at Mode City in Paris for the second season running.
"It is the largest lingerie exhibition in the world and I always enjoy watching my sales manager flipping in and out of several different languages! This show also corresponds with Paris Fashion Week so I'm hoping the exhibition will be really busy. Of course it's always a delight to stay in Paris for a few days too!"


The label is currently available in Selfridges, Fenwick and Coco de Mer in the UK and is also manufactured in the UK. 
Designer Victoria Holt comments:
"I really believe that there's nothing that can give a girl more confidence than her wearing a beautiful matching set. It can enhance any outfit and can make you feel so special. There's nothing better than looking and feeling fabulous on the inside and out!"


A quote that I definitely agree with considering lingerie is the fashion path I have chosen to follow.


Boux Avenue
After the recent closure of La Senza in the centre of Newcastle I was over the moon to find out that there was going to be another new lingerie store opening up in the metro centre. 
The store Boux Avenue was set up by ex La Senza boss Theo Paphitis. 
My first step in the gorgeously laid out store was totally breath taking - the shop layout is totally gorgeous and any girls dream to be walking around in!


However, my eyes then started to look closely at the actual lingerie which is sold in the store - I was gobsmacked. 
Every bra is the same shape, there is no unusual finishings or trims. Plain bras - black, white & beige. So disappointing to see that the lingerie which was actually stocked in the store was so boring in contrast to the beautiful well thought out appearance of the store.
I researched further on the Boux Avenue website to find out that the company aims to make "love happen with our aspirational blend of nostalgic and contemporary design". 
It seems as though this new lingerie brand has played its first season of lingerie safe probably due to the recession and the fact that the brand is not as well known yet. Hopefully in the feature months I am going to be seeing some gorgeous, beautifully finished lingerie in Boux Avenue - fingers crossed!! 


Lascivious 

During the day of my interview at De Montfort University, I found out that one of the lingerie brands Lascivious was set up by a recent graduate from De Montfort. I was keen to find out more information as this is one of the steps I dream of during my career.

The company was founded in 2004 by creative director Chloe Hamblen and fuelled by a passion for the aesthetics of sex and a flair for sophistication and modern design.


The brand has a global reach which has grown to include Selfridges, Harrods, Coco De Mer and high-end luxury lingerie, fashion and concept stores all over the world.




Chloe started this successful brand by originally designing, making and selling from her bedroom.
Lascivious is a brand that is proud to be British and continues to support the UK manufacturing industry, designing and producing all of its lingerie ethically in England    



In 2000 Chloe took a place on the Contour Fashion course at De Montfort University, during which time she gained a wealth of experience – working for prestigious designers such as the late Alexander McQueen, through to luxury retail for brands La Perla and Myla.
On graduating with a 1st Class Hons she took up a technical position with Dutch modernist designer Marlies Dekkers in Rotterdam, honing her skills before returning home in 2004 to found Lascivious. Chloe is a passionate designer dedicated to the brands growth and integrity. As creative and managing director she oversees all aspects of the business and continues to find new and exciting ways to grow and develop the brand.
After researching the main designers and manufacturers in the company, most of them have been graduates from De Montfort University. It’s such an inspiring, motivating fact that hopefully will give me the opportunity to do the same in the near future.

Press
A key to a successful business is to have the right press for the right people in the right place. This immediately raises awareness of the brand especially if celebrities get involved as they make the brand much more appealing.
Lascivious has appeared in many magazines from FHM to Vogue.



 One of my favorite press releases of the brand Lascivious featured in Idol Magazine in Spring/Summer 2012.




Gorgeous illustrations combined with the actual garments were fabulous. The illustration and model interacted with each other combining the two types of media really well. Definitely one of the most inspirational press releases I have ever seen.

I can’t wait to go to De Montfort this September and start making my mark in the fashion world!


The Lingerie Addict - Best blog!!!

I came across this blog ‘The Lingerie Addict” which I now follow as it is a wonderful insight to the world of lingerie!
In April 2008, The Lingerie Addict was born in Atlanta amidst an ever-growing collection of stockings and knickers.

The blog originally filled a niche: Treacle Tart (internet name of the blogger) searched all over the internet for a lingerie site that helped women on a budget find lingerie that they would love. After coming up empty, she finally decided to create that space herself. She wanted to create a place that was loving, inclusive, and empowering to women all over.

The Lingerie Addict started as a small stockings blog, and has gone on to become the highest ranked lingerie blog online. The blog receives 90,000 unique visitors a month on average and nearly 200,000 page views per month. In January 2012, The Lingerie Addict reached one million visitors.

After researching the blog – I have found it one of the most information giving websites on lingerie. Definitely something that will come in useful when I am down at De Montfort University as I will be able to keep up to date in the lingerie world.
See the Lingerie Addict Blog for yourself!!

Kinky Knickers NO NO!
After the recent series of Mary Porta launching her campaign to revive the British clothing industry by restarting production of high-quality ladies knickers there has been an uproar with other lingerie brands!

Mary Porta has created cheap knickers for £10 which are now selling in places big as Liberty's and Marks & Spencers! Porta has built this brand with no past lingerie experience and employed people to manufacture the knickers who had no experience what so ever - yet she manages to sell 10,000 pairs of knickers to Boots?
The design of the knickers are awful - even the colours don't match. 
There are only a few colours available as well including black and beige. 
Currently Kinky Knickers is sold out everywhere including ASOS, Boots, House of Fraser, John Lewis, Liberty, Marks & Spencers and Selfridges. 

I believe the only reason why this brand has been successful is due to the publicity through the TV series. There has also been an article stating that Mary Porta is going to be releasing a 'luxury' collection in Kinky Knickers. 

Little Green Lingerie
After being in contact with Emily Adlington - founder of Little Green Lingerie I decided to investigate the brand further.
Little Green Lingerie was set up by Emily after she had finished the same course that I am completing now at Newcastle College. She saw a niche in the market for making recycled, eco lingerie and acted on this.
She now sells and makes lingerie from home as well as working in another full time job.
Emily has done really well for herself and its inspiring to see that you can achieve your own label if you have good design abilities and motivation. I have added a couple of examples of her lingerie collections below:



Little Green Lingerie is available to buy at  littlegreenlingerie.bigcartel.com

Newspaper Article 
I have scanned in an article from Metro December 2011.
A mens guide to buying their ladies lingerie! 


My Lingerie Sketches 


8th June 2012
A couple of days ago I received a message on twitter about entering a lingerie design competition from Esty Lingerie (www.estylingerie.com).
It was the chance to win a competition where your actual lingerie designs would be made and sold on their online shop. 
This is a major opportunity - so I have decided to enter and hopefully they will recognise my real passion and love towards lingerie :) very excited!! 


Im busy designing and thinking about colours currently so thought I would upload a few pictures ;) ENJOY! 





Final Spec Sheets for Etsy Lingerie Competition 2012



Can't wait to find out who is the winner! 
Fingers Crossed!!!


Unfortunately didn't win this one - onto the next!


Lascivious 
Recently just purchased my first ever set of Lascivious underwear.
Unwrapping the package was such a pleasure..it was gorgeously wrapped in its own branded box with purple bows. 
I have added a few photos below:








I love my new set of lingerie (just need a special occasion!) 
Cant wait for the next sale! After all I am a student :)!!!







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